Let's face it, finding a secure spot for a diy hi lift mount can be a real headache when you're trying to pack your rig for a weekend on the trails. These jacks are incredibly useful—they can get you out of a deep rut or help change a tire on uneven ground—but they are also heavy, awkward, and notoriously greasy. If you just toss one in the back of your truck or SUV, it's going to rattle like crazy, ruin your carpet, or worse, become a dangerous projectile if you hit a big bump.
Buying a pre-made bracket might seem like the easy way out, but they're often surprisingly expensive for what they actually are. Usually, it's just a couple of pieces of stamped steel and some bolts. If you've got a drill, some basic hardware, and a little bit of free time on a Saturday, you can put together something just as strong for a fraction of the price. Plus, doing it yourself means you can tuck the jack exactly where you want it.
Deciding on the Best Mounting Location
Before you start drilling holes in your vehicle, you've got to figure out where that jack is going to live. Every spot has its pros and cons, and what works for a Jeep owner might not work for someone with a Tacoma or a vintage Land Cruiser.
The hood is a classic choice for the "rugged" look. It keeps the jack accessible and out of the way of your cargo. However, it can be a literal pain in the back to lift a 40-pound jack over your head every time you need it. Also, some people find that hood-mounted jacks interfere with their windshield washer spray or create a distracting glare when the sun hits the steel.
The rear bumper or a tire carrier is probably the most popular spot. It's easy to reach, and it keeps the muddy jack outside the vehicle. The downside here is exposure to the elements. If you live somewhere where they salt the roads in winter, your jack will turn into a rusted lump of iron in no time if you don't stay on top of maintenance.
For truck owners, the bed rails are the gold standard for a diy hi lift mount. It keeps the jack low, secure, and relatively protected. You can bolt it to the side of the bed or right against the bulkhead behind the cab. It stays out of your line of sight and doesn't affect your aerodynamics (not that most off-roaders care about fuel economy, but every bit helps).
Gathering Your Materials
You don't need a professional fabrication shop to make this work. Most of the stuff you need can be found at a local hardware store or even in your scrap bin.
For a basic bolt-on mount, you're going to want some heavy-duty carriage bolts or hex bolts. Grade 8 hardware is usually overkill for this, but honestly, for the extra dollar or two, it's worth the peace of mind. You'll also need some large washers to help distribute the load, especially if you're mounting to thin sheet metal.
The "secret sauce" of a good DIY mount is rubber. You want some thick rubber washers or even a piece of an old tire or a heavy-duty mudflap. This goes between the jack and the mount to act as an isolator. Without it, the metal-on-metal contact will vibrate and drive you absolutely insane within five minutes of driving.
If you're mounting to a round tube (like a roll bar or a brush guard), you can use heavy-duty U-bolts or even "muffler clamps" in a pinch. They aren't the prettiest things in the world, but they're cheap and they work.
Putting It All Together
Let's talk through a simple bed-rail style diy hi lift mount. This is a great starting point because it's easy to adapt to other areas of the vehicle.
First, you'll want to measure the distance between the holes on the "spine" of your jack. Don't just guess; these things vary slightly between brands and models. Once you have that measurement, mark your mounting surface.
If you're drilling into a truck bed, make sure you look underneath before you pull the trigger. You really don't want to accidentally put a hole through your fuel line or a wiring harness. Once the holes are drilled, feed your bolts through from the back. Use a large "fender washer" on the backside to keep the bolt from pulling through the sheet metal.
Now, here's a tip to make your life easier: use a nut to lock the bolt firmly to the vehicle first. This essentially creates a "stud" sticking out. This way, you aren't fumbling with the bolt head while trying to hold a heavy jack in place.
Slide your rubber isolators onto the studs, then lift the jack onto them. Secure the jack with another set of washers and some wing nuts. Wing nuts are great because they allow for tool-free access, but if you're worried about someone walking off with your expensive tool, you might want to use a standard lock nut or even a specialized locking lug nut.
Dealing with the Noise and Vibration
If there is one universal truth about these jacks, it's that they are loud. Even with a rock-solid diy hi lift mount, the handle of the jack itself tends to clatter against the main bar.
Most people use a "handle keeper," which is just a polyurethane sleeve that slides over the handle and the bar to hold them together. If you want to keep it strictly DIY, a simple bungee cord or a heavy-duty Velcro strap does the job just as well.
Another trick is to use a bit of grease on the contact points. Not only does it help prevent rust, but it can also dampen some of those high-pitched squeaks that happen when you're crawling over washboard roads. Just be careful not to get grease all over your gear when you're reaching into the back of your rig.
Security and Longevity
Since your jack is now proudly displayed on the outside of your vehicle, it's a prime target for thieves. It only takes a minute for someone to spin off a couple of wing nuts and vanish with your gear.
A simple fix is to run a cable lock through the holes in the jack and around a secure part of your vehicle's frame or bed tie-down. It won't stop a determined thief with bolt cutters, but it'll stop the "crime of opportunity" guy.
Also, don't forget that your diy hi lift mount is holding up a heavy piece of equipment that is constantly being vibrated. Every few months, give the nuts a quick turn to make sure nothing has backed off. It's also a good idea to spray the bolts with a bit of paint or some clear coat to prevent them from seizing up over time. There's nothing more frustrating than needing your jack in an emergency only to find that the mounting hardware is rusted solid.
Why the Effort Is Worth It
At the end of the day, building your own mount is about more than just saving forty or fifty bucks. It's about knowing that your gear is secured exactly how you want it. There's a certain pride that comes with looking at your rig and knowing you built the solutions for the problems you faced.
Whether you're heading out for a week-long overlanding trip or just hitting the local mud hole for a few hours, having a reliable place for your jack makes the whole experience smoother. You won't have to listen to that annoying clank-clank-clank behind your head, and you'll know exactly where the tool is when things get "interesting" on the trail. So, grab your drill and some hardware, and get that jack mounted up—you'll be glad you did the next time you find yourself stuck in the muck.